ダブルブレステッドスーツを着こなす/ Dress in a double-breasted suit.

今日は「ダブルブレステッドスーツを着こなす」と言うテーマを掲げて、「Style Book」コンテンツのドレス編の記事をお送りしたいと思います。

Today, I would like to write an article with the theme of “Dress in a double-breasted suit”. And in this article, I consider about the way of dressing of double-breasted suit.


・TPOと装い/Situation and Attire


I’ll introduce the attire of mid-December. On that day, Tokyo was sunny and the highest temperature was around 13 degrees, a relatively comfortable day.



In such a situation, There were no plans to meet anyone outside the company on that day, and the weather was fine, so there were no restrictions on dressing. Therefore I decided to wear my favorite double-breasted suit.



This double-breasted suit is a bespoke suit by a Sarto in Naples, Italy. And it’s based on a classic style, it features sporty and soft shoulder lines. The fabric is gray wool made of Loropiana and has a glen check pattern. Also I selected a white collar plain shirt and a brown-based paisley jacquard tie.



And I chose brown color cap toe oxford for my feet.


・あとがき/ Consideration


It is said that the origin of double-breasted was the winter over coat for soldiers or sailors. The exact origin is not clear, but in any case, as you can see from the structure, double-breasted is born from the functional requirement that the front flaps can overlap to the left or right depending on the direction of the wind, preventing the intrusion of cold wind from between the buttons.



In general, items which have the practical origin in the world of gentlemen’s dress fashion are often categorized as casual(sport), but today there is a no difference in the level of dress between double-breasted and single-breasted suits / jackets.



So we don’t have to worry too much about the situation when we’re wearing double breasted. However, double-breasted suits / jackets are not very common in Japan, and it is rare to see businessman wearing double-breasted suits even in the business district of Tokyo.



I don’t know the reason, but double-breasted feels more intimidating and dignified than single-breasted suits, and some people seem to feel old-fashioned due to the influence of TV dramas broadcast in the past.



Therefore, even though there is no difference between a double-breasted suit and a single-breasted suit in terms of the dress code, the social and cultural positioning of double-breasted suit should be considered when wearing double-breasted I think.



More specifically,to enjoy wearing double-breasted suit when meeting a close business partner or when you have no plan to meet an outsider, because that suit is high hobby. Also, as in the case of this time, to select double-breasted suit with glen check pattern and using brown-colored items (tie and shoes) which is more casual can make a soft image.



I believe that businessmen need to achieve their business success first, not to enjoy dressing. That is why I think it is important not only to consider the historical meaning and position of each fashion item, but also to enjoy dressing while taking into account the current social and cultural influences at the moment.